Granada Spain

The gateway to La Alpujarra, crossing a deep gorge. Also a tiny chapel on the bridge to the right.

I know this area, as I have volunteered at an olive farm, some years before, and felt at home.  

"Too much planning rob's an adventure of its soul"

After a good night's sleep, as it was very quiet and only one other campervan parked up for the night. Waking up to another nice view of the river and mountains.

I drove to Durcal for breakfast, a small town 8 km's towards Granada. It was Sunday, so a great atmosphere of Spanish families spending time together, just what I needed, a feeling of peace in one's life. After a coffee I decided to take a scenic drive through La Alpujarra, I did not get far along the road, as it's such a beautiful drive so I stopped at:

Las Barreras Camping de La Alpujarra. Just west of Orgiva. (Just one night here and I moved the short distance to the other side of Orgiva)

€20.00/night with elec and washing machine.

A fixed price for one or two people in a camper or motorhome

N36°54.248'

W003°26.309'

"The area is divided between the eastern Alpujarra in the province of Almeria and the western Alpujarra in Granada."

There are a lot of road cyclists in this area from Durcal and along the road through Las Alpujarras. Great roads to cycle if a bit steep!

The road through Las Alpujarra's is 70km-long, just below the southern flank of the Sierra Nevada. A jumble of valleys of arid hillsides split by deep ravines, with white villages set beside rapid streams surrounded by woodlands and orchards.

Jamon is the ultimate pork product, and its quality lies in the excellent conditions in the area of Alpujuarras Trevelez where it is dried, with its perfect conditions with constant temperatures for the natural ham curing process. The pigs are farmed in Mercia and transported to Alpujarra.

Great location for hiking & wwoofing

WWOOF means:

Willing Workers On Organic Farms or World Wide Opportunities on Organic Farms.

For first-hand experience in organic growing methods and experience life in a rural setting.

See www.wwoof.es You may need to search for a host 2 months before arriving, it is a popular area. Best times to visit are Spring & Autumn.

Also, it's an off-road mountain bike mecca

For MTB holidays and short breaks

see: www.ciclomontana.com and www.puremountains.com

For bicycle hire and outdoor accessories in Orgiva.

Avda. Gonzalez Robles 14D

Sierra Nevada Outdoor

www.sierranevadaoutdoor.com

Bicycle mechanic - nearest can be found in Lanjaron.

After cooking lunch I cycled my way down to Orgiva, the view of the lay of the mountains remind me a lot of Los Andes Tolima in Colombia. I did not stop for a beer in town, I did notice a bar at the top of the hill just after setting off that looked inviting. I cycled back after a quick tour of the town. (feels like you have earned a beer) The bar had a lot of character, with locals and tourist's. The bar was called La Taberna de Paco. Bottle of beer and a large tapa only €2.00.

Cycling past a few bars and you can smell very strong weed..........Very chilled out place. 

Orgiva is a small town in the western Alpujarras, a bit scruffy in places, but adds to its character. There are many hippies with a new age element, that fit in well and always a good sign there is more to discover and time to stay for longer. There are also local hand-made ceramics for sale in many places.

Elev: 345 m

People are attracted to this area for its natural beauty and great weather.

That attracts people looking to buy houses and why not!

The TV documentary and book Driving over Lemons - Anoptimist In Andalucia By Chris Stewart ex-Genesis drummer has helped to push house prices up. So the local Spanish people tell me.

Next morning I drove the short distance through Orgiva and 1.2ks on A-348 east to a better campsite:

Camping Orgiva

€12.90/night without elec

free WIFI 

Do not feed the cats!

N36°53.251'

W003°25.001'

I went for a short cycle ride, these hills go on and on. You don't realise how far you have cycled up until you return. I need a lower gear and to lose some weight!!!

Also a lot of use of the brakes, so if you come here to cycle, bring spare brake pads.

I passed Puente Siete Ojos Bridge of 7 eyes (over Rio Guadalfeo) up to Los Tablones for a great view of Orgiva. Then cycled over to Orgiva to buy supplies before the shops shut for lunch at 2 pm.

I'm now lying in my hammock drinking a freshly squeezed orange juice.

I returned to the bridge later in the day, as it is a very relaxing place. This time a Shepherd crossed under the bridge with his herd of goats.

Being at the bridge gave me a lot of peace, reminds me of when I was a child playing in the river Misbourne at Little Missenden spending hours there with my friends.

Cycled into town this morning, to the butcher and stopped at Bar Ruta De La Plata on the way back. They have a notice board with campervans, houses for sale and someone offering to teach Spanish in return for learning English. It's a good place to meet travellers/expats.

I am still here in Orgiva. I cycled to town this morning taking the back road/path to buy some fruit, ginger, lemons and local honey (to make tea) along with other items. I cycled back without stopping at any bars.

After lunch I cycled to town, this time taking the track from Puente Siete Ojos, following the signs Ruta Olives going along the river Guadalfeo to my left and crossed the dried river Chico and continued through small farms and houses (from ruins to some grand-looking places with great views) until I reached a trail called Camino de la Estrella (near horse riding centre) and just on from there towards Orgiva is a park with an open-air bar. But I did not stop, I cycled into town and back down the trail. It was nice to see olive trees with grass around them and not been sprayed with chemicals! My knowledge of working on an olive farm. 

*note do not follow Camino de la Estrella all the way down it's a dead end! I have already done it to save you from doing the same.

Today Thursday, October 12th is a national holiday

Fiesta Nacional de España or Hispanic Day

It's the exact day Christoper Columbus

(Cristobal Colon)

first set foot in the Americas

Finally left Orgiva and headed up to Trevelez on a very scenic road. If this is your first time driving mountain roads, it can feel a bit hairy! But breath-taking.

Staying at Camping Trevelez

Elev: 1548m

€12.20 without elec and pay upfront.

Bathrooms not kept clean could be due to a full campsite/bank holiday weekend!

Temp can still reach high 20's in the afternoon here in October and drop off quickly from 5 pm. Need a jumper and a good sleeping bag.

I arrived at noon and with the bank holiday, I took the last space available.

Its the first time here it feels like autumn with a flick of a switch, with the change of colour of the leaf's that have started to fall.

There is a narrow path along a small stream that takes you down to the town from the campsite. Takes 15/20 minutes with great views of the mountains and town.

On my way down at the top of the town near the church San Antonio "Plaza de la Iglesia" I stopped for a beer and tapa "morcilla"  a blood sausage. It's very quiet and relaxed. I then continued walking through the narrow streets and houses to the main plaza. Where the first thing you notice is the busloads of tourists.

There is a Cajero cash machine "Caja Rural" in the plaza. You can also find a mini supermarket, panaderias and places selling fruit.

The town is set in a valley, the old houses are Berber style similar to those in Morocco's Atlas mountains. (See more below Buying a house/land in La Alpujarra)

At the campsite reception, there is information on hiking. There is a 6-hour return hike up to Siete Lagunas that is well signposted.

Like any hike, go prepared: Tell someone where you intend to go, where the correct clothing (weather can change quickly, possible there is snow from autumn until June) , take food, water and wear something bright to be seen. And let them know when you have returned. 

The road was closed though Trevelez till 1:30 pm as there was a run going on.

I am now on my way to Finca Joya in Juviles about 1/2 hours drive, to do some volunteer work on an organic farm, in exchange for meals and to park my van, plus for the experience and to better know the area, culture and meet the locals.

Juviles Elev: 1257m

Overlooking the Sierra de la Contraviesa

Day 1 Woofing collecting almonds.

That evening we went for a walk down into the Trevelez gorge near the old mining area and we saw ibexes running on the edge of the very steep gorge.

wwoofing gives you the chance not only to know the area but to meet interesting locals.

Using my skills as a mechanic to help get Miguel's tractor started and running. (Bad battery cable connections and air in the fuel system)

Food revolution. Concerned about the safety of the food you eat? - In Las Alpujarras "treasured by the Moors as a 'paradise", there is a network of like-minded people growing food without using pesticides and using traditional ways that have been proven to work in harmony with nature to give long-term growth and not for short-term finance. Organic farming and food exchange groups.

The legacy of the Moors is the extensive irrigation system, the ' acequias ', that divert water out of the deep valleys and onto the broad terraces. This ancient system of watering has been responsible for the characteristic look of the area and for the fact that forests of broad-leafed trees such as the emblematic Chestnut can survive as the water is spread and filtered across the landscape.

There are walks from Juviles to villages of Timar, Lobras and the town of Cadiar. The walk to Lobras from Timar " Aceqia de los Castanos" was chestnut walk and now an irrigation channel. Also popular for cycling holidays. Part of the long distance footpath GR-7 "White/Red" and the Medieval Route "White/Yellow" Close to Juviles is the old Arab fortress ruins "Fortaleza del Fuerete " for great panoramic views and the old mercury factory near to Timar.

For mountain biking holidays, at the nearby town of Bérchules. See Pure Mountains

An old flour mill El Molino de Enmedio was constructed in the 16th century and has been extremely well looked-after over the years.

The mill grinds with water.

The visit was to learn how to maintain the grindstone, to remove and re-sharpen. This is the only working mill in Cádiar Las Alpujarras. A small group wish to keep the mill running and mill their own flour.

The last miller is called Domingo. 

Buying a house/land in La Alpujarra.

There are houses "Cortijos" and Land "Fincas" with great views and many houses as ruins. The most important thing is water (Natural spring can dry up if you are looking at growing anything) and access to it, visiting in the summer when there is no rain to see if there is a water supply.

Acequia - irrigation channel

Water is also being sent to the south of Almeria from the eastern Alpujarra for the produce of avocados grown in poly-tunnels that cover large dry areas.

Houses tend to have small windows to help keep cool during hot months and there are rules that might not let you change.

Also, the house needs to be functional if you are going to live here indefinitely. 

Berber style: Many houses are built using materials that are found local and traditional as before the 16th century.

Launa - is a magnesium clay with a slate structure and bluish grey colour. 5 - 6" off launa is placed on the roof. Modern builds put a layer of plastic or waterproof cover before covering with launa

Slate - local slate

Beams - Traditionally from slow-growing chestnut, now eucalyptus are used

When winters had more snow, it was necessary to clear the snow from the roofs as the extra weight could cause the roof to collapse.

Great engineering - The acequia (canal) is up to 15ks long from the sauce to Berchules and possibly 1000 years old. The people of Berchules keep the acequia clean and maintained. 

We continued the hike to Lavaderos de La Reina. 

There were over 3000 people living here when wheat was the main crop, now less than 200 people living full time, many have moved to Granada, leaving mostly retired living here.

Coming to the end of the road trip in Spain before heading to France and returning to England.
Castril is one of the six villages which make up the Huescar region in the Province of Northern Granada and is about 150 kilometres from Granada City. The village is situated on the edge of the Province of Jaen, bordering on the stunning natural park of Cazorla.