Still heading South and now in the Province of Cadiz. In the southern half of the Costa de la Luz. That reaches from the mouth of the region's biggest river, the Guadalquivir, to the Strait of Gibraltar, and is blessed with the best string of beaches in Andalucía and which are still underdeveloped.
I started near the port of Chipiona and found wild camping close to the beach. It is the 4th time I have been in this neck of the wood's and the 5th road trip in Spain and still a lot more to see..........
Local knowledge from my good Spanish friend Anna, I was with yesterday. Last night she sent me details of a nice spot to wild camp. So early this morning I headed across town and made camp. The beach is called La Playa de las Tres Piedras on Calle Gaviotas. N36°42.069' W006°25.589'
There are a few bars with toilet' s that are available to use. There are also toilets on the beach. Here I can set up the outside room at the back of the van to shower. Huele bien!
The beach here is clean, and there was a small group of cleaners this morning walking the beach. However I can not say the same for the area around, there is rubbish everywhere shame as this is a very nice spot and must have come from the August holidays. There are no trees for shade, but there is a breeze and having the side and back doors open helps keep it cool inside.
After a lovely sunset, last night due to some cloud cover and facing West makes this ideal location to watch sunsets. This morning I woke up and the sky was clear. It was also windy, the Costa de Luz is known for being windy and the Atlantic waters were choppy. Windsurfers were making the most of it!
I cycled to town to get some cash and supplies, it's a 3k bike ride, a bit of a dirt trail, cycle path and back on the road near the town. On the way back the small group of cleaners was having a tidy up along the trail to the beach. Good to see but they have their work cut out. I might go and join them.
Nice to be living in shorts and walking bare feet. The beach is a nice and long stretch, ideal for a longer walk. I was walking along It at least twice a day.
Update: With my gout - even with drinking beer, the pain has reduced, my diet is high in olive oil, fresh orange juice, and fruit. Lot's of the sun, walking barefoot also helps build the ligaments and posture, is what we are designed to do.
Rota - North end of the bay of Cadiz has a Spanish naval station NAVSTA 1953
An area with strategic maritime importance over the centuries.
fully funded by the USA
And is the largest American military community in Spain - Navy, Marine, US Army & Air Force.
From Playa de las Tres Piedras you can see many military aircraft passing by, warships to the left and cargo ships to the far right to and from the port/river mouth of Guadalquivir, with tourists in the middle. It's nice here but it's mostly Spanish families or couple's and I would have moved on to the more hippie hideaways and laid-back places more South. That can wait till tomorrow as today "Saturday '' my friend is coming here to meet me and is worth the wait to spend time together. It was worth the wait! She arrived with her girlfriends, always nice to meet people. We spent the day on the beach, having lunch, and chatting. We went to a cool bar with a live band, right on the beach, met more people and they were all very nice and happy to know I was travelling to Spain and knowing their culture. After that we went to the town of Cuervo just back in the Province of Savilla. Where my friend lives, we bought a mixture of fish and seafood. That I highly recommend, there was a small queue outside the shop, always a good sign. Freiduria & Pescaderia. Pescaito Frito y marisco. C/Fernando Camara 55 El Curvo..
Her friends were very simpatico. Her friend Dulce María invited me to stay at her house that night. She was very beautiful and had good energy. Also with the local knowledge of more places to visit. We had a Spanish breakfast the next morning and chatted before I headed off to Cadiz.
Cadiz or just Cad-i to the locals
Maybe the oldest city in Europe. Cadiz began to boom after Columbus's voyages to the Americas. He sailed from here on his second and fourth voyages. Cadiz attacked enemies too. In 1587 England's Sir Francis Drake did a raid on the harbour, delaying the Spanish Armada. Cadiz's golden age was in the 18th century, with trade from the Americas. Loss of American colonies in the 19th century plunged Cadiz into a decline. But now with the number of visitors things should be on the up for Cadi.
Cadiz is one of the first places I visited on mainland Spain some years ago and was with my late brother John. So I have some good memories and good to re-visit this wonderful city. If you like Spanish colonial buildings and to be by the sea then this place is a must.
Now continue South to a small white village Vejer de la Frontera up on the hill close to the sea, and where I am going after. A place my new friend said to go. But I feel I have been here before, so I will have to check the photos!
Now back at the beach. At Los Canos de Meca is only 10 minutes from Vejer. Sandy coves and hideaways are to explore. A lot more people this way traveling solo/independently.
I'm at a campsite - Faro de Trafalgar. It's the most expensive one on my travels! It's very close to the beach and you get a free bracelet. But a chance to do my washing and charge all my batteries. Things also cost a bit more than what I have been used to paying for over the last month or so. Still, it's a lot less than back in Blighty and it's a lot sunnier.
There are two walks at Los Canos. One up to the Tower "Torre de Meca" and a two-hour walk one way along the coast the other way. Both have beautiful views through pine trees and both start 150 mts
up Avenida de la Mar. Also worth exploring on a bicycle around Zahora at Los Canos
and there are many small roads and you can find small bars and continue to the beach.
Cabo de Trafalgar - it was off this cape that the Spanish naval power was terminated in a few hours one day in 1805 by a British fleet under Admiral Nelson.
"If I keep driving South 50 more miles, I will be in Morocco"
I Went for a bike ride to Zahora, not far back on the main road. After spending time walking around the Faro. I started to remember the time I was here with my brother John (could be 10 years or more ago) So the ride was to find the hotel and bar/restaurant we visited and I found them both!!
The beach up to and around the lighthouse is one of Andalusians top beaches. The trouble is, it can get busy. Trying to take photos can be dangerous with nudists who appear at the point of taking a click! Also, there are signs on many Spanish beaches saying no dogs €600 fine, but no one takes notice, and no one clears up the mess! Don't get me wrong, I highly recommend you visit here.
I continue South a bit more, I have 4/5 more days along the Costa de Luz. As for Sunday, I will collect Jodie from Malaga airport. Could do with some more books to read Jodie!
I am now in one of the most beautiful bays in Spain "Bolonia" If it was good enough for the Romans, then it's good enough for me. This is a tiny village hidden on a beautiful bay, just up the coast from Tarifa. The Romans gave us "Baelo Claudia" What the Maya gave Mexico Tulum. Both ruins are located on the beach. The ruins are free to enter if you are European, also you will need I.D, I did not have either and the nice lady let me in. The ruins include a theatre, temples and other buildings with a great view of the beach. It was busy trading in Roman times (specialists in salted fish) it was the main port to modern day Tangier.
Wild camping Balonia - West end of the beach, as you come into the village turn left, past all the parking and follow the coast along to the last restaurant and camping is on the left. N36°08.460' W005°51.172'
There are a few other spots to wild camp.
On the way here I stopped at Barbate for supplies and Zahara de los
Atunes for cash (I parked just along the coast and cycled to town) as there are no banks here and limited supplies. Also, bring plenty of water for washing. There are some small shops that sell the necessaries and always good to support the small business owner over big's
At Bolonia, there are no high-rise buildings or Thomas Cook holidays here.
You can see Morocco from here (At night lit up) and camp overlooking the beach and laid-back bar close by.
Walked the big sand dune this morning, for some amazing views. Spain still offers lots of surprises.
The next morning I got up early to see the sunrise. Then made my way to Tarifa, well to Playa de Los Lances. The beach stretches 10k's from Tarifa, I have parked up about 1/2 way along. There are plenty of campsites around and places to park up for the night.
I'm wild camping at:
N36°03.792' W005°38.792'
There is a bar nearby (Bar Wave) for coffee and a beer to watch the sun go down.
I also made a drive into Tarifa for lunch (Beer and tapas) and a short walk around the old city. There is Campervan parking in the new part of town with water/waste €8 for 24 hrs parking. I parked nearby, where there were other vans parked and it's only a short walk to the old city.
N36°01.074'
W005°36.626'
Tarifa seems a lot bigger than when I was here with my brother over 10 years ago. They call that progress, or it could be it's my first tourist stop on the coast this road trip. It's an interesting city and worth a visit. Go to Playa Chica to see where the Atlantic meets the Med. Also views of Morocco across the Straights.
Boat crossing from the port of Tarifa to Tangier. I did this as a day trip with my brother last time I was here, remembering having some great fish to eat.
Tarifa - Is now a windsurfing mecca. Beaches are clean with white sand.
The old town is worth exploring, with its narrow streets and whitewashed houses. Full of many bars & restaurants.
Tarifa takes its name from Tariq ibn Malik, who led a Muslim raid in 710.
From parking and walking along Calle Batalla del Salado, you will arrive at the old town and the entrance "Puerta de Jerez" that was built after the Reconquista.
The Mirador on top of the old castle walls has great views of Africa. €4 admission to Castillo de Guzman.
The Wind. For much of the year, either
Levante - Easterly
Or
Poniente - Westerly
Can't travel anymore South or I will be in Morocco, only 14 k across the Straits of Gibraltar.
Today I cleaned the campervan, did my washing and bought supplies for Jodie's visit. Don't have any plans, but sure it will include a visit to one of the beaches above and some small white villages...............So I have checked in at Camping Rio Jara at a good price and only 4k from Tarifa.
N.36°02'34,26"
W05°37'42,00"
Right on the beach and natural park del Estrecho.
Cash payment only. No credit card
Visited Tarifa again today, found a nice little busy bar in the old town (Bar El Frances Calle Sancho IV el Bravo 21. On the corner with Plaza 18 de Julio) that did some nice tapas. There was a girl in the bar wearing a T-Shirt saying "I'm only visiting this planet" I thought that is a good way to view life and not the way we have been encouraged to believe why we are here, only to work to pay bills and a pension. Anyway, after a few beers, I walked around the old town and was determined to find a way of getting a photo of the old city and Morocco in the background. As this city has a wall all the way around and the town was full of locals all dressed up visiting the church and there were a lot of police on standby!!!! Well with having a few beers, it gave me the confidence to do a bit of climbing up the old city wall............
Why not study Spanish in Tarifa at a private school. Escuela Hispalense
www.hispalense.com
